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Now place both depron pieces on a flat even surface like a table. Press the two pieces together, so they look like a big 800x305mm piece. Use packing tape to tape the two pieces together. Use several strips of the tape and run them from one piece straight across the seam to the other piece. The gaps between the tape shouldn´t be more than 20-30mm. Now run one length of tape from one end to the other covering all the previous pieces of tape and the seam between them. All this tape might seem a bit excessive for joining two pieces of depron, but once you start bending that leading edge, you don´t want your work to be spoiled by the leading edge popping apart.
Now it´s time to make the leading edge by bending the top depron skin (800x155mm) upon the bottom skin. Use a table with a straight edge and place the depron skins with the bottom skin lying on the table and the top skin hanging down from the table. The edge of the table should be right at the "tape hinge" of the skins. Now put a metal ruler or something similar and put it on top of the skin lying on the table. The edge of the ruler should be right next to the seam between the two depron skins. Now pull it 3 mm away from the seam in order for the depron to be able to deform once we start bending. Fix the ruler with clamps or press it down with your hand. Now carefully start bending the leading edge by raising the skin hanging down from the table. Work from one end to the other and back again. You will notice that the seam will gradually deform in front of the ruler and turn into a v-shaped groove. Keep bending the skin more and more working from one end to the other and back again. Eventually you should be able to bend the top skin all the way down upon the bottom skin. At this point you should have a nice and round leading edge. If all this sounds a bit complicated I suggest that you practice this bending technique with small pieces of scrap depron until you´re happy with the outcome.
Unfold the depron skins and place them on a flat surface. Now use a pen to mark the positions of the spar and ribs on the bottom skin. Trial fit the spar and a rib. Mark the end of the rib at the trailing edge. Do this at both ends of the wing and draw a line between the marks. Sand the trailing edge to bevel it using the line just drawn. Depron sands easily so it shouldn´t take long.
Glue the spar and ribs. Use hotglue or foam safe cyano. Trial bend the top skin and mark the location of the trailing edge bevel. Unfold the top skin and bevel its trailing edge. Trial bend again and check everything looks like a wing.
Now it´s time to install the wires for the motors. Use tape or glue to keep them in place while the top skin is glued. If you want to use wing mounted servos for the ailerons this is also the time to install servo extension cords.
Protect your building surface with plastic foil. Now it´s time to glue the wing. I find that the best glue for the job is PU based wood glue. This is the kind of glue that expands like foam when hardening. But you should also be able to use thick foam safe cyano as well. Start by running a bead of glue all the way down the seam groove. Make sure the whole length of the groove is covered with glue. Now put glue on all the ribs and the main spar. Put glue on the bevelled area of the trailing edge.
Bend the top skin and place sandbags on the wing making sure the top skin is fully weighted down and touching all the ribs. Use a metal ruler protected by plastic foil to press the last couple of millimeters of the top skin trailing edge firmly down against the building surface. Use clamps to fix the ruler. Check that the leading edge looks fine the whole length af the wing. Let the wing dry for 24 hours.
Remove the wing from the building surface. Remove excess glue at the wing tips. Remove the tape from the leading edge. Use a sharp knife and a ruler to cut the trailing edge straight. Hopefully your wing should look like the one in the picture with a nice round leading edge and a sharp straight trailing edge.
Mark the position of the ailerons and cut them from the wing. Bevel the ailerons and hinge them at the top using hinge tape or similar strong tape.
If you opted to use servos in the wing for aileron control, cut holes for the servos and glue them using cyano or hot glue. If you want to use a torque connection and one centrally placed servo cut a groove from the hinge line of the aileron to the center of the wing. The width of the groove should be the same as the diameter of the chosen torque tube. I use a 2mm aluminium tube and a 1.8mm steel torque rod. Cut the tube to length, insert the rod and bend like shown in the photo. Insert into the groove and glue. Cut a groove in the aileron that fits the torque rod and glue.
Mount the aileron servo with cyano or hot glue. Use .8mm piano wire or similar with z bends in one end to make aileron connections. Connect the 1.8mm torque rod to the 0.8mm piano wire with heat shrink tubing or soft wire insulation. Use thin cyano to secure the connections. The aileron connection should be easy moving and slop free.